Fabrizio Fiorenzano Photography and Art

Murano is the largest of the islands in Venice lagoon. Together with Burano, Mazzorbo, Torcello, Sant’Erasmo, Palestra and Lido, it is one of the obligatory stops for tourists visiting Venice.
The island is not an independent local authority, as many people think, but forms part of the Venice commune.
With its 7000 inhabitants and 70 factories, palazzi and smaller dwellings, it is located to the north-east of Venice, on the Canale dei Marani. Little remains of its original aspect as nature created it and today it is a bustling, well-to-do and productive place.
Murano was founded before the birth of Christ by the Altinati who named it “Amuranium”, after one of the gates of their city, Altinia. Over the centuries it increased in importance and in the Middle Ages was famous for its port and watermills. The island is just a few minutes from Venice in one of the many run by companies such as ACTV which leave from several departure points every few minutes, stopping at all the larger islands in the archipelago.
In many ways, Murano resembles Venice. It is bisected by a large canal commonly known as the Canal Grande, which is traversed by all the ferries arriving and departing. The canal is crossed by only one large iron bridge, which is thus the essential crossing point for anyone wishing to go from one side of the island to the other. However unlike Venice the island has no central square or old quarter.

Men at work a furnace

MURANO’S FAMED FACTORIES

But the real symbol of Murano is its glass. Until 1295, glass working took place in Venice but from that date a statute issued by the State, fearing outbreaks of fire within the city, ordered all furnaces to be transferred to Murano. For several countries, the island’s economy has been based on the output of the dozens of small companies with their many master craftsmen, skilled in the ancient art of glass-blowing. The art was handed down over a thousand years ago by the Romans, who in their turn inherited it from the eastern empire. As a result of the barbarian invasions, the Romans were forced to flee their city and found refuge on the islands of the Venice lagoon, bringing with them their skills with glass.
It is fascinating experience to go into a work-shop and see a master craftsman, with apparently effortless dexterity, transform a molten lump of glass into an exquisite work of art using techniques invented centuries ago by the early glass-makers. One of the city’s canals is actually called Rio dei Vetrai (glassblowers’ brook) and is lined with workshops. It was here in the distant past that the first ateliers sprang up. The canal is always busy with boats loaded with raw materials and also the many visitors who come to admire the Faro, a sturdy cylindrical white tower built entirely from Istrian stone.

Furnace

STROLLING BY THE SHOPS

Another part of Murano popular with visitors is Fondamenta Riva Longa, close to the Canal Grande and just 50 metres from the Cathedral.
It is known as the passeggiata di Murano. The banks have been raised in a project which ended just a year ago. And the Fondamenta is now the most spacious of the island’s promenades, where mums bring their toddlers for a walk. Here there are important clothes shops and the headquarters of the famous factory “La Murrina” which exports highly prized glassware all over the world (www.lamurrina.com). It is also the location of several artists’ studios. On the a mundane level, it also the location the island’s only super-market and the embarkation point for ferries direct to Venice airport.

Glass

When visiting Murano I always ask myself, “How do the people of the lagoon live with water in place of the roads?” It is a question asked by many when they visit Venice and the surrounding islands.
The postman arrives by sea, the dustcart is replaced by a “dustboat”, the merchandise for the shops is unloaded from boats and three are many other examples of this singular way of life. However, it would seem that people live better here than elsewhere and, despite what would seem to be a hindrance, the economy and lifestyle are helped by well-balances and controlled systems and the waters become a source not only of richness but of protection.

Fabrizio Fiorenzano